Academy Award winner Angelina Jolie follows up her 2024 biopic “Maria” with the heavy-handed drama “Couture,” produced by Vertical. Directed by Alice Winocour, who also wrote the script, the film centers on Maxine (played by Jolie), an American filmmaker who arrives in Paris during the excitement of Fashion Week to direct the show’s opening segment. Maxine has a daughter back home whom she hasn’t seen in ages, but a phone call from her doctor changes everything when she learns that she has breast cancer.
The film follows Maxine as she struggles to come to terms with her diagnosis while reconnecting with a longtime colleague, Louis Garrel. Additionally, “Couture” features two side stories: one focuses on Ada (Anyier Anei), an 18-year-old from Nairobi who has been taken out of pharmacy school to be the show’s “fresh-faced” opener. Ada navigates her first trip to Europe, facing both casual and not-so-casual racism as she discovers her identity as an artist. The other storyline follows Angèle (Ella Rumpf), a makeup artist who, during her downtime, writes about her experiences in an often-abusive industry.
My introduction to Angelina Jolie was in the low-budget sequel “Cyborg 2” back in 1993, and I’ve witnessed her journey to becoming an Oscar winner, action star, and on-screen sex symbol. Reviewing her filmography, it’s clear she has explored nearly every genre. While Jolie’s films haven’t always received critical acclaim, she typically delivers solid performances. This sentiment carries over to “Couture.”
Alice Winocour has a distinct style in her filmmaking; her previous work often centers on characters coping with psychological or physical wounds. In “Couture,” the intent seems to be to focus on Maxine becoming lost in her career while neglecting her own well-being. Jolie does her best to bring depth to the material, but the film’s shifting storylines between Maxine, Ada, and Angèle fail to resonate. Their stories don’t offer anything new, and while I support newcomers in the industry, neither actress fully engaged my interest.
As cinephiles know, French cinema is characterized by deep character development, philosophical inquiry, and social commentary. Unfortunately, these elements don’t come together effectively in “Couture.” The resolution, where Maxine comes to terms with her diagnosis, feels half-hearted.
As my close friends know, my own son underwent chemotherapy for a benign tumor during his early years, so films about cancer have a different impact on me. I didn’t expect “Couture” to offer realism; I merely hoped for a film that possessed more heart. That said, I believe women may find something to appreciate in it.
Final Grade: C-
“Couture” opens in theaters today.
